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‍Start your day around 8:30 AM with a traditional Turkish breakfast (kahvaltı) in Sultanahmet. There are many cozy cafes near the square – for example, you might try a rooftop terrace restaurant overlooking Hagia Sophia, or a local spot on Divan Yolu Caddesi for menemen (scrambled eggs with tomatoes) and simit. Fuel up on fresh bread, olives, cheeses, tomatoes, cucumbers, and tea. After all, you’ll be walking through history all day!

By 9:30 AM, head to the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Cami), which opens to visitors around 8:30 AM - except during prayer times and on Friday mornings before the community afternoon prayer and cleaning.

‍Want to know the times of the Islamic call to prayer? Just Google:‍“Namaz Vakti Istanbul”
‍It will bring up the full daily schedule — a lovely way to time your mosque visits,  sunset ferry rides, or simply pause and appreciate the atmosphere of the city.

As you approach its courtyard, take in the harmony of its cascading domes and six minarets – an unprecedented number when it was built between 1609 and 1616 by order of Sultan Ahmed I​. Step inside and you'll find a striking red carpet underfoot - a modern update that contrast beautifully with the mosque's famously cool-toned tile work and saluted arches.

Inside, you’ll understand the nickname “Blue Mosque”: over 20,000 hand-painted Iznik tiles in tulip and floral motifs decorate the walls, glowing under natural light from 200+ windows. Note the rich red carpet (all visitors must remove shoes) and the expansive prayer space oriented toward Mecca. Despite being over 400 years old, the Blue Mosque is still an active place of worship, so dress modestly (cover knees and shoulders; women bring a headscarf) and be ready to pause your visit during the call to prayer. The mosque is generally open to tourists from about 8:30 AM until around 6:00 PM, with a closure roughly 30 minutes five times a day for prayers (and longer mid-day on Friday)​.

If you visit first thing in the morning on a weekday, you’ll avoid both crowds and the mid-day prayer closure. Step inside and spend ~20–30 minutes quietly admiring the soaring dome (43 meters high) and those famous blue tiles. Imagine the imperial ceremonies that once took place here – Sultan Ahmed himself would have prayed under this very dome. When you exit, don’t forget to look back at the mosque’s profile; the symmetry of the minarets is truly photogenic against the morning sky.

Just next to the Blue Mosque is the Hippodrome of Constantinople (today’s Sultanahmet Square). This was the sporting and social centre of Byzantine Constantinople – a massive chariot-racing stadium that could hold up to 100,000 spectators in its heyday​​! As you walk through the open plaza (free and always accessible), picture the U-shaped race track that once existed here. Three ancient monuments still stand on the former spina (central barrier) of the Hippodrome: the Obelisk of Theodosius, the Serpentine Column, and the Walled Obelisk.

The Obelisk of Theodosius is the slender pink granite monument you’ll see mounted on a marble base. Amazingly, this obelisk is 3500 years old – originally carved in Egypt (c. 15th century BC) by Pharaoh Thutmose III, then brought to Constantinople by Emperor Theodosius I in the 4th century AD​​. Only the top third of the original obelisk survived the journey, but it still stands nearly 20 m tall today. Take a look at the marble pedestal – the carved reliefs show Theodosius presiding over chariot races and the labor it took to erect the obelisk in this very Hippodrome​. It’s surreal to stand before an ancient Egyptian monument that has witnessed the rise and fall of empires in Istanbul.

A few steps further south is the Serpentine Column – a twisted bronze pillar. It was originally a Greek victory monument from 5th century BC, erected at the Temple of Apollo in Delphi to commemorate the defeat of the Persians​. Constantine the Great had it transported here. It once featured three serpent heads at the top (supporting a golden bowl), but those heads have since fallen off (one is now in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum). Even headless, this 2,500-year-old column is impressive – touch the cool bronze and imagine the history it has seen since the days of Alexander the Great.

Further down stands the Walled Obelisk (or Constantine’s Obelisk), a rough stone pillar that was originally covered in gilded bronze plaques (later looted in the 1204 Fourth Crusade). Though not much to look at now, it’s another surviving fragment of the Byzantine Hippodrome.

Spend about 20 minutes strolling the Hippodrome, reading the informational plaques by each monument. It’s a lovely open-air museum. On the north side, you’ll also see the domed German Fountain (a gazebo-like gift from Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1901) – a later addition that’s a nice spot to sit in the shade for a moment. By now it’s around 10:30 AM.

Mid-Morning – Hagia Sophia:

A Journey Through TimeCross the square toward Hagia Sophia, the massive domed silhouette that has anchored Istanbul’s skyline for nearly 1500 years. Aim to arrive by 10:30–11:00 AM. Hagia Sophia is typically open to visitors from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM daily (with closures to tourists during prayer times, and on Friday mid-day around 12:30–2:30 PM)​. As of 2025, Hagia Sophia functions as a mosque again (no entry fee for general visitation of the ground floor). However, note that the upper galleries – which house Byzantine mosaics – have been reopened as a museum section with a ticket (~25€), since the main floor is reserved for worshippers​.

Take a moment outside at the Hagia Sophia Plaza to appreciate the building’s enormous buttresses, minarets (added in Ottoman times), and its central dome (31 meters across). When it was completed in 537 AD under Emperor Justinian, Hagia Sophia was the largest church in the world​– a triumph of Byzantine engineering that left Constantine’s subjects in awe. For nearly 1,000 years it served as the grand church of Constantinople, then after 1453 the Ottomans converted it into the imperial mosque of Istanbul, and in 1934 it was secularized into a museum. In 2020 it was reconverted to a mosque, but unlike most mosques, tourists are still welcome to visit outside of prayer times​. You are about to step into history itself.

Before entering, ensure you’re dressed modestly (as with the Blue Mosque). Women should have a scarf to cover hair; if you forget, they often provide cover-ups at the door. Non-worshipping visitors will use a separate tourist entrance – security lines can be long in peak season, but generally this time of morning is reasonable. Inside, pause in the narthex(entrance hall) to examine the colossal doors. Above the main portal, see if you can spot the faded mosaic of Emperor Constantine and Justinian presenting the city and Hagia Sophia to the Virgin Mary – a nod to the building’s Christian origins.

Then walk into the nave and prepare to gasp. Hagia Sophia’s soaring domed interior is one of the world’s great spaces. Look up 55 meters to the crown of the dome, seemingly floating on a ring of light from its 40 windows. The effect is ethereal. In Justinian’s time, this dome symbolized the vault of heaven on earth. For 900+ years, this was the Byzantine Empire’s most sacred church – and upon conversion to a mosque in 1453, it gained mihrabs and minarets but retained its fundamental grandeur. Notice the giant round wooden plaques hung high with Arabic calligraphy of Allah, Muhammad, and the early caliphs – these were added in the 19th century during an Ottoman restoration. If you’re lucky and the light is right, you might also glimpse some of the Byzantine mosaics in the upper gallery (now off-limits unless you have the gallery ticket). The famous mosaic of the Virgin and Child still adorns the high apse, and mosaics of emperors and saints are in the upper gallery.

Absorb the layers of history: you’re standing where Byzantine emperors were crowned, where Crusaders rode through (during the tragic sack of 1204), and where sultans later prayed. The marble urns, the Ottoman tombs outside, the Viking graffiti on a railing upstairs – every stone has a story. Take ~45 minutes to wander inside. If the upper galleries are open and you choose to buy the ticket to visit them, you can climb the ancient ramp for closer views of the mosaics (like the beautiful 13th-century Deesis mosaic of Christ)​. Otherwise, much of the mosaic detail can be observed (or imagined) from the floor. Either way, the sheer scale of Hagia Sophia will leave an impression. As legend has it, when Justinian first entered after it was built, he exclaimed, “Glory to God, I have outdone thee, O Solomon!” – comparing Hagia Sophia to the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem.

‍Timing tip: Non-Muslim visitors are not allowed during the five daily prayer sessions. Plan to exit before the noon call to prayer (around 12:00) to avoid being ushered out. If it’s Friday, note tourists can only enter after early afternoon (around 2:30 PM) due to the big weekly prayers.

By now it’s likely 12:00 PM or a bit later. You’ve covered a lot of ground – time to recharge and grab lunch before continuing.

Lunch Break – Köfte in Sultanahmet

For a satisfying light lunch, try the Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi (Historical Sultanahmet Meatball Restaurant) located just across from Hagia Sophia. This historic eatery, founded in 1920, is something of an Istanbul legend – often with a line out the door at midday​​. Don’t worry, the line moves fast and locals and tourists alike queue up for its famous grilled köfte (Turkish meatballs). Inside, you’ll sit at simple marble-top tables and be served a plate of juicy beef/lamb köfte with a side of piyaz (white bean salad) and fresh bread. It’s a quick, no-fuss meal – flavorful, affordable, and deeply rooted in local tradition. The restaurant’s walls themselves have witnessed a century of hungry visitors. Grab a cold ayran (yogurt drink) to wash it down, and perhaps finish with a small semolina helva or some Turkish tea. In and out in 30–40 minutes, and you’ll be refueled for more exploration.

‍(Alternative: If meatballs aren’t your thing, there are other options nearby – for example, Pudding Shop Lale Restaurant on Divan Yolu for traditional stews and pudding desserts, or one of the small döner kebab stands for a quick sandwich. But Sultanahmet Köftecisi is a crowd-pleaser that first-timers usually enjoy.)

*By about 1:00 PM, you’re ready to continue.

Early Afternoon – Underground at the Basilica Cistern

After lunch, walk 5 minutes across the street to the Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı), located just to the northwest of Hagia Sophia (look for the small building labeled “Yerebatan Cistern” on Yerebatan Street). The Basilica Cistern is open daily, generally from 9:00 AM till 10:00 PM (with last entry sometime before closing)​. Being underground, it’s a great post-lunch stop, offering a cool respite on hot days.

Descend the staircase into the eerie, magical world of the cistern. Instantly, the ambient light and sound change – you’ll hear dripping water and see rows of ancient columns disappearing into darkness and reflecting in shallow pools below. This enormous subterranean reservoir was built in the 6th century (around 532 AD) under Emperor Justinian I – the same ruler who built Hagia Sophia​. It’s essentially an underground water cathedral: the chamber is about 140 m long by 70 m wide, and its brick ceiling is supported by a forest of 336 marble columns, each 9 m high, arranged in 12 rows of 28​. Most of these columns were recycled from older Roman buildings, which is why they have varying styles (Corinthian, Ionic capitals, etc.). The cistern could hold 80,000 cubic meters of water, supplying the Great Palace and surrounding buildings in Byzantine times​.

As you walk on the raised platforms, notice how the columns are lit with an orangey glow, their reflections shimmering on the water. It’s hauntingly beautiful – no wonder scenes from movies and novels (like Dan Brown’s Inferno) have been set here​. Make your way to the far left corner of the cistern to see the famous Medusa heads. Two column bases here are giant carved stone blocks with Medusa’s face – one placed upside down, the other on its side. These were likely plundered from a late Roman-era pagan temple. The upside-down Medusa has become an icon of the cistern – legend says it was placed that way intentionally to negate the power of her gaze. It’s fun to speculate why they’re here: were they used just as masonry, or was there a deeper meaning? Either way, they add to the mystique. Take a photo with the mysterious Gorgon stare (don’t worry, you won’t turn to stone).

Plan to spend ~30 minutes in the cistern, soaking up the atmosphere. Informational signs will fill you in on its history and restoration. It’s incredible to think this “sunken palace” sat forgotten for centuries – rediscovered only in 1545 when scholars investigated locals drawing water (and even catching fish!) from secret holes in their basements. Today, it’s one of Istanbul’s most unique attractions.

‍Note: As of 2025, the Basilica Cistern has modern art installations and lighting effects that enhance the experience. There’s even a subtle music track. Take your time and perhaps sit on a bench for a moment to truly absorb the ancient tranquility of this place.

By 2:00 PM, resurface into daylight. From here, you have a few options depending on your energy and interests:

If you’re feeling enthusiastic and time allows, you could visit Topkapi Palace next (entrance is just a 5-minute walk through the First Courtyard, by the Hagia Sophia exit). Topkapi is a vast museum complex that was the seat of the Ottoman sultans for 400 years. However, touring Topkapi properly (including the Harem and Treasury) takes at least 2–3 hours, which might not comfortably fit in this one-day walk. Many first-timers choose to dedicate a separate half-day to Topkapi. You could do a brief visit to the outer courtyards for free – for instance, walk through the First Courtyard (the park-like area with the fountain and ancient church of Hagia Irene) to peek at the Gate of Salutation. But we’d recommend saving Topkapi’s treasures (the jeweled Imperial Treasury, Prophet Muhammed’s relics, etc.) for another day when you’re fresh, rather than rushing it.

A more relaxed option for the afternoon is to enjoy the Gülhane Park, which stretches out behind Topkapi. This was once the royal garden of the palace, now a public park with lovely tree-lined paths and seasonal flower beds (spectacular tulips in spring). You can reach Gülhane Park by exiting the First Courtyard from the northeast gate or walking around the outer walls to the park’s main entrance on Alemdar Street. Consider grabbing a Turkish ice cream (dondurma) from a vendor at the gate – the chewy, stretchy ice cream is a treat and the vendors often perform a fun trick when serving it.

If you enter Gülhane Park (around 2:30 PM), stroll downhill under the canopy of planes and palms. Locals will be relaxing on benches, children playing – it’s a peaceful slice of Istanbul life away from the tourist crowds. About halfway down, on the right, there’s a charming open-air café known as Setüstü Çay Bahçesi (Tea Garden) with an incredible view overlooking the Bosphorus. This could be a perfect rest stop: sip a glass of Turkish tea or coffee while gazing out at the water, watching ferries crisscross between Europe and Asia, and possibly spotting the Topkapi Palace turrets above you. It’s a moment to reflect on all you’ve seen so far.

After your break, exit Gülhane Park at the bottom. (If you skipped the park, you can walk down Alemdar Caddesi or Soğukçeşme Street behind Hagia Sophia to reach the same point.) It should be around 3:30 PM. From here, make your way back toward Sultanahmet Square/Blue Mosque – it’s about 10 minutes back up the gentle hill (either retrace through the park uphill or walk via the street along the tram line to Sultanahmet tram stop).

Late Afternoon – Arasta Bazaar and Jennifer’s Hamam

By 4:00 PM, plan to wrap up the tour with a relaxing browse through the Arasta Bazaar, capped off at Jennifer’s Hamam. The Arasta Bazaar is conveniently located right behind (south of) the Blue Mosque on Torun Street. This small, open-air market street is far calmer than the labyrinth of the Grand Bazaar, yet offers a lovely range of shops – perfect for a first-time visitor to pick up quality souvenirs without feeling overwhelmed. Historically, the Arasta was a row of stables and shops for the Blue Mosque complex; today its restored storefronts sell ceramics, carpets, spices, and textiles in a much less chaotic setting than the Grand Bazaar.Take your time wandering the Arasta’s length (it’s just one street). You’ll find exquisite İznik tile replicas, hand-painted ceramics with Ottoman motifs, evil eye trinkets, and maybe even artisans working on copperware or calligraphy. One highlight here is the Mosaic Museum (if open) tucked in a side building – it contains stunning Byzantine mosaics from the Great Palace that used to stand on this spot. As of early 2025 the Great Palace Mosaic Museum was under renovation (temporarily closed)​​, but if by your visit it has reopened, it’s absolutely worth a peek (it’s small; can be seen in 30 minutes or less, showcasing 6th-century floor mosaics of hunting scenes). Otherwise, you can just appreciate that you’re walking above where the Byzantine Emperors’ palace once sprawled.

Finally, end your walking tour at Jennifer’s Hamam, one of Arasta Bazaar’s most beloved shops (usually open daily until early evening). Jennifer’s Hamam is renowned for its authentic hand-loomed Turkish towels and textiles. Unlike mass-produced souvenirs, the items here are made from GOTS-certified organic Turkish cotton by traditional weavers in Turkish villages​. Wraps, bath towels (peştemals), scarves, and robes line the shelves in a rainbow of colors and patterns. Take a moment to chat with the knowledgeable staff – they are passionate about the craft and will happily explain how these towels are made on old-style shuttled looms, and how buying one supports local artisans and preserves a fading craft. Feel the difference in texture – these towels are butter-soft yet strong, meant to last decades (in fact, customers report they last 3-6 times longer than factory towels)​. The quality is so high that Jennifer’s has become a bit of a pilgrimage site for textile lovers. Each piece is handwoven using traditional techniques and natural fibres — the kind of work that’s nearly impossible to find anywhere else. Even if you’re not in the market to buy, visiting is a rich cultural experience in itself. And if a beautiful hamam towel (or two) happens to make its way into your suitcase, you’ll be taking home more than a souvenir — you’ll carry a story you can wrap yourself in.
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By 5:00 PM, you’ll likely be winding down. The Blue Mosque’s evening call to prayer may echo as you finish shopping. Step out of the Arasta Bazaar with your treasures and take one last look at the surroundings – the minarets of the Blue Mosque on one side, the sea breeze from the Marmara on the other. You’ve walked the footsteps of emperors and sultans, sampled Turkish flavors, and even ventured underground.

‍Congratulations, in one day you’ve seen many of Istanbul’s most iconic sights! First-time visitors often end this day both satisfied and eager for more (perhaps a sunset on the Galata Bridge or a Bosphorus cruise next). But for now, head back to your hotel to rest – tomorrow is another adventure.

‍(First-time Visitor Tour recap: ~5 km of walking. Highlights: Blue Mosque, Hippodrome monuments, Hagia Sophia, Basilica Cistern, plus optional Topkapi courtyard and Gülhane Park. Breakfast at a Sultanahmet café; lunch on famous köfte; finished with shopping at Arasta Bazaar’s authentic handicraft stores. Be sure to check prayer schedules and site opening hours in advance. See reference section below for details.)

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Tour 2: Hidden Gems & Local Life for Returning Visitors

Map highlighting Sultanahmet & surrounding areas for Tour 2 – including lesser-known sites like Little Hagia Sophia, Sokollu Mosque, and Suleymaniye (upper left), with Arasta Bazaar (near Blue Mosque) to finish.

‍If you’ve already seen Istanbul’s superstar sights, this second tour dives deeper into Sultanahmet’s backstreets and uncovers local favourites. We’ll visit graceful smaller mosques, explore an atmospheric cistern, wander through historic markets, and take in skyline views – all at a more relaxed pace. You’ll still start at Sultanahmet Square, but quickly veer off the beaten path. Expect a mix of Ottoman and Byzantine surprises that most first-timers miss. As always, wear comfy shoes, and bring a sense of curiosity!Morning – Breakfast Like a Local & Backstreet Mosques

‍8:30 AM – Simit and Tea: Begin your day with a casual local breakfast. Rather than a big hotel buffet, do as Istanbulites do: grab a simit (a sesame-crusted bagel-like bread) fresh from the bakery or street cart. There’s often a simit vendor near the Sultanahmet Square or by the tram stop in the morning. Pick up one or two simits (they’re best when still warm and crispy) and then order a tulip-shaped glass of çay (Turkish black tea) from a nearby tea stall or café. One great spot to enjoy this is the outdoor benches by the German Fountain or in the little park facing the Blue Mosque. As you munch, you’ll see commuters hustling to work, school kids, maybe even morning prayer attendees – a slice of real Istanbul life unfolding before the tourist rush. It’s a light breakfast, but you can supplement it with a fresh juice from a corner stand or a piece of borek (flaky pastry) from a bakery like Çıralı Bakery on Divan Yolu. By keeping it quick and local, you free up more time for exploring hidden gems.

‍9:00 AM – Hippodrome Revisited (Briefly):
Since you’re already at Sultanahmet Square, you’ll pass by the familiar Hippodrome monuments again. This time, instead of lingering, use them as your compass. Walk past the Obelisk and Serpentine Column once more, heading toward the south end of the Hippodrome (the opposite end from Hagia Sophia). Your destination is just a few blocks beyond the square in the old Kadırga neighborhood: the Little Hagia Sophia. Follow the signs for Küçük Ayasofya Camii or Little Hagia Sophia; it’s about a 5–7 minute walk down a gentle slope (you’ll leave the tourist crowds quickly).

‍9:15 AM – Little Hagia Sophia (Küçük Ayasofya Mosque):
Tucked in a quiet side street is this early 6th-century Byzantine church-turned-mosque, one of Istanbul’s most enchanting secrets. Little Hagia Sophia was originally the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus, commissioned by Emperor Justinian I between 527 and 536 AD – just before he built the big Hagia Sophia​​. In fact, many historians consider it a sort of architectural prototype for Hagia Sophia​. Today it’s a functioning mosque (free entry, generally open outside prayer times, and far less crowded than any major site). As you approach, note the charming exterior: a squat octagonal dome sits atop a rectangular base, and there’s a lovely little garden and tea house in the courtyard (often run by the mosque caretakers – keep this in mind for a tea later if you like).

Step inside Little Hagia Sophia (shoes off, ladies should cover hair – the caretakers can provide scarves/shawls). Immediately you’ll sense the age of this place. It is one of the oldest surviving churches in Istanbul​. The interior is much smaller scale than Hagia Sophia, but with a similar ethereal atmosphere. Look up at the central dome – supported by an unusual eight-sided design with an almost circular shape. In the upper gallery, you’ll spot intricately carved Byzantine capitals and perhaps faint remnants of frescoes. The proportions are elegant and human-scaled. After the Ottoman conquest, this church was converted into a mosque (in 1506, during Sultan Bayezid II’s reign)​. Yet it still feels very Byzantine. The name “Little Hagia Sophia” comes from those similarities in design; standing here, you can imagine how revolutionary the big Hagia Sophia’s architecture was by first seeing it in miniature.

Enjoy the peaceful vibe – odds are you might be one of only a few visitors. You may even meet the imam or caretaker, who often greet visitors warmly. If you climb up the wooden stairs to the women’s gallery (if open), you get a closer view of the decorations and a wonderful perspective down into the mosque. Don’t miss the exterior arcade where a few artisan shops sometimes operate (one might be a small gallery of traditional ebru paper marbling or calligraphy). Spend ~20 minutes here soaking in the history. This “overlooked Byzantine masterpiece” is a favorite of many repeat visitors for its serenity and significance.

‍9:45 AM – Kadırga Backstreets to Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque:
From Little Hagia Sophia, it’s a short walk (5 minutes) to another hidden gem: Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque. Head uphill on Küçük Ayasofya Street, then wind through a couple of quaint streets in the Kadırga district. You’ll pass by children playing in narrow lanes, wooden Ottoman-era houses leaning at odd angles, and locals going about their day. These few blocks are blissfully free of souvenir shops – it’s just a normal old Istanbul neighborhood. Feel free to greet the occasional cat (there are many – Istanbul’s unofficial mascots). As you approach Sokollu Mosque, you might first spot its slender minaret or the curved roof of its medrese rooms.

‍10:00 AM – Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Mosque:
Designed by the great architect Mimar Sinan in 1571–72 ​for Grand Vizier Sokollu Mehmet Pasha and Princess İsmihan, this mosque is a jewel box of Ottoman design tucked on a tricky hillside. It’s often overlooked simply because it’s slightly off the main tourist trail – but that’s exactly why you’ll enjoy it. If the mosque is closed when you arrive (it sometimes is locked outside prayer hours due to low tourist traffic), don’t be shy – the caretaker’s house is next door; you can knock or ask a nearby shopkeeper to help find the keyholder. Usually they are happy to open it for respectful visitors.Once inside, you’ll be dazzled by the Iznik tile work. Sokollu Mosque is famed for having some of the finest quality Iznik tiles in Istanbul, rivalling even the Rüstem Pasha Mosque​. Every wall is adorned with brilliant ceramic tiles – deep cobalt blues, turquoise, greens, and reds in geometric and floral patterns, all under natural light filtering from the windows. Because it’s smaller, you can get right up close to the tiles and appreciate their detail. The mosque’s layout is interesting – built on a steep slope, Sinan constructed a two-story front courtyard (with shops below and a madrasa above) to level the site​. Inside, the prayer hall is an elegant hexagon inscribed in a rectangle (classic Sinan engineering ingenuity). Gaze up at the dome – see how perfectly proportioned everything is, despite the unconventional lot.

One very special feature: fragments of the Kaaba’s Black Stone. Sokollu Mosque contains four pieces of the sacred Black Stone of Mecca, set in different places – above the main entrance door, on the mihrab, on the minbar doorway, and on the arch of the minbar steps. These were gifted by Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent to his daughter (who endowed the mosque)​​. They’re small, black, shiny stone pieces framed in gold – see if you can spot them. It’s said that touching or even seeing these is a blessing akin to having visited the Kaaba itself. This feature makes the mosque particularly cherished among those who know of it.Plan to spend 20 minutes here. Often, you’ll have the whole mosque to yourself – a very intimate experience. The silence, the sunbeams, the tiles, and the knowledge that Sinan himself oversaw this place’s construction make it quite moving. If the mosque’s guardian is around and chatty, they might point out details or simply offer a friendly smile. Don’t forget to look at the woodwork of the minbar and doors – finely carved and inlaid mother-of-pearl, another testament to Ottoman artisanship.

As you leave Sokollu Mosque, you’ll feel like you discovered a secret – which, in a way, you have. Two world-class historic mosques visited and it’s barely 10:30 AM, with nary a tour group in sight!

Late Morning – Hidden Cistern & Local Markets

‍10:45 AM – Walk toward Çemberlitaş:
Next, let’s head back north toward the more bustling areas, but with a focus on lesser-known attractions. Make your way from Kadırga up toward Çemberlitaş (the area with the Column of Constantine and tram stop). You can zigzag through small streets or follow Kadırga Limanı Street up to Gedikpaşa and then toward Çemberlitaş; any route will gradually ascend the slope (about 10 minutes walk). As you get closer to Çemberlitaş, the streets get livelier – you’re entering the edge of the Grand Bazaar district. The Column of Constantine (Çemberlitaş) stands in the middle of Divan Yolu – a burnt-looking round column that was erected by Emperor Constantine in 330 AD as the center of his new capital. It’s currently wrapped in iron hoops (hence the name Çember-litaş meaning “hooped stone”)​. You can pause to read the plaque – it’s another ancient monument many pass by without realizing its significance.

‍11:00 AM – Theodosius Cistern (Şerefiye Sarnıcı):
Just a couple blocks east of Çemberlitaş is another subterranean surprise: the Theodosius Cistern, locally called Şerefiye Sarnıcı. This cistern, smaller than the Basilica Cistern but beautifully restored, dates to the late 5th century (built under Emperor Theodosius II)​​. In recent years it was renovated and opened as a stunning exhibit space with an immersive light show. If you’re a fan of underground atmospheres, it’s worth a visit. The entrance is on Piyer Loti Street (inside a modern building of the Istanbul Province Office). Entry is usually free or a nominal fee, and opening hours are roughly 9:00–7:00 daily​.

Descend into the Şerefiye Cistern to find yourself among roughly 32 columns holding up brick arches – like a smaller cousin of the Basilica Cistern. But here, they often project a 10-minute 360° light and sound show onto the columns and water, which happens at scheduled times (often on the hour). If timing aligns (say there’s an 11:30 show), try to catch it – it’s a dazzling artistic portrayal of Istanbul’s history and the cistern’s architecture, with lights making the columns dance in reflections. Even without the show, the cistern is peaceful and photogenic, often much quieter than the Basilica one. It’s like stepping into a hidden chamber no one knows about – which, for a long time, was true (it only opened to the public in 2018). Give it about 20 minutes, including watching the show if available. Between the two cisterns you’ve seen today and yesterday, you’re becoming quite the expert on ancient water architecture!

‍11:30 AM – Grand Bazaar Perimeter Walk:
Now, instead of entering the Grand Bazaar itself (which you probably visited on a prior trip, or intentionally want to skip for “less-touristy” vibe), we’ll skirt its edges through backstreets where locals shop. From Çemberlitaş, head west on Tavukpazarı Sk. or Vezirhan Sk. You’ll notice increasing clusters of small shops – welcome to the Mahmutpaşa Bazaar area. This is essentially a warren of lanes descending from the Grand Bazaar toward Spice Bazaar, filled with textile shops, wedding dress vendors, fabric stores, button sellers, cheap clothing outlets – the real wholesale market where locals and merchants from Anatolia come to buy goods in bulk.Stroll down Mahmutpaşa slope – it’s a lively, slightly chaotic downhill street (steps in parts) lined with vendors hawking everything from jeans to prom dresses. You’ll see bargain hunters and porters carrying huge loads. This is an experience of everyday commerce that feels worlds away from Sultanahmet Square, yet it’s just adjacent. Keep an eye on your belongings in crowds, but otherwise soak it in. The calls of “Gel abla, gel abi!” (Come in sister, brother!) from shopkeepers, the neon storefront signs, and the occasional tea-toting runner weaving through with a tray of tea glasses – it’s sensory and authentic. You likely won’t buy anything here (unless you need 10 sequined evening gowns!), but it’s a great walk-through.As you descend, on your right near the bottom you’ll pass the Grand Bazaar’s Mahmutpaşa Gate – a peek inside will reveal the covered market’s domes. But continue down. In ~10 minutes, you’ll emerge near Eminönü and the Spice Bazaar area.

‍12:00 PM – Spice Bazaar and Rustem Pasha Mosque (Optional):
At the bottom of the hill, you’ll see the New Mosque (Yeni Camii) and the Misir Çarşısı (Spice Bazaar) to your left. Now, the Spice Bazaar is touristy, but also local in its own way (locals do shop for nuts, teas, etc. here). Since it’s around lunch time, you might just take a quick peek in to enjoy the aromas. The Spice Bazaar (built in 1664) is a L-shaped covered market glowing with mounds of spices: paprika, saffron, mint, sumac, turmeric – you name it – plus Turkish delight, dried fruits, and herbal teas. It’s smaller and easier to navigate than the Grand Bazaar. A 15-minute walkthrough is usually sufficient to get the vibe. Try a sample of lokum (Turkish delight) from one of the vendors (pomegranate pistachio is a popular flavor), or buy a small packet of apple tea or Ottoman spice blend as a souvenir. Keep in mind this market is open daily 9 AM – 7 PM (including Sundays now as of 2025, except religious holidays)​.

One more hidden gem here: just adjacent to the Spice Bazaar is Rüstem Pasha Mosque – if you haven’t seen it before, it’s a must for tile lovers. It’s perched above street level (you ascend a staircase behind some spice shops). This mosque, another Sinan creation from 1563, is renowned for its Iznik tiles covering every surface in dazzling blues and reds. Many visitors miss it because it’s tucked above market stalls. If you still have an appetite for mosques and it’s open (usually outside prayer times it is), pop in for 10 minutes to admire the tile panels (featuring the famous İznik “tulip” design among others). It’s often quiet at mid-day. Consider it a bonus stop – a hidden delight many only discover on their second visit to Istanbul!Now it’s probably 12:30 PM and your stomach is talking.

Lunch – A Local Feast Near Suleymaniye

For lunch on this tour, venture to a locale that returning visitors rave about: the humble eateries by Süleymaniye Mosque known for their kuru fasulye (Turkish bean stew). From Spice Bazaar/Eminönü, it’s a bit of an uphill trek (~15–20 minutes) to Suleymaniye, but it’s absolutely worth it. You’ll head northwest through pedestrians-only streets (or take the shortcut of climbing the uphill alleyways behind the Spice Bazaar). Alternatively, if your feet are tired, you could hop on the T1 tram at Eminönü for one stop to Beyazıt and then walk 10 minutes, but let’s assume you’re game to walk to see more along the way.Find Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi (the famous coffee roasters by Spice Bazaar) – take a deep breath of roasting coffee as you pass (maybe grab a bag of Turkish coffee for souvenirs if inclined). Then, wind your way up through Tahtakale and Mercan districts – an adventure through hardware stores, copperware shops, and random market bustle. You’ll ascend through Vefa – home to Istanbul University’s historic campus (you might pass under the arch of the ancient Bozdoğan Aqueduct far overhead if you go via Atatürk Bulvarı – a dramatic sight). Aim for the Süleymaniye Mosque’s massive dome visible above. It’s a bit of a climb, but around 1:00 PM you should reach Süleymaniye.

Just before entering the mosque area, along Prof. Siddik Sami Onar Caddesi, you’ll see a cluster of modest restaurants with steam-filled windows and tantalizing smells – these are the kuru fasulye joints. The most famous is “Kuru Fasulyeci Erzincanlı Ali Baba”, directly opposite the mosque’s north gate. It’s a simple place with formica tables, frequented by locals, students, even office workers who drive here for the beans. Order a plate of kuru fasulye which is a comforting stew of white beans in a tomato-based sauce (sometimes with bits of meat). It arrives with a side of fluffy rice pilaf – the perfect accompaniment. Add on some tangy pickles (they usually provide or you can ask for turşu). Many also get a dollop of yoğurt on the side to mix with the beans – very delicious. It’s a decidedly un-touristy lunch, and extremely affordable. The beans are famously tender and flavorful – this spot has been ladling them out for decades, supposedly since 1938. If beans aren’t your thing, they usually have other dishes like stewed eggplant or meatballs, but trust us, try the beans! Wash it down with ayran or perhaps a small bottle of soda. This meal is the definition of Turkish comfort food. The vibe is no-frills; you might be sitting elbow to elbow with university professors or shopkeepers on break.

Enjoy the change of scene – from tourist hub in the morning to local hangout at lunch. You’ll spend maybe 30 minutes eating. Don’t forget to look up – you have the grand Süleymaniye Mosque towering just next door, which is our next stop.

Early Afternoon – Süleymaniye Mosque & Panorama

‍1:45 PM – Süleymaniye Mosque:
Now that you’re right there, step into the courtyard of the Süleymaniye Mosque, the largest imperial mosque in Istanbul. This masterpiece was designed by Mimar Sinan (yes, him again!) for Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent in 1557, and it crowns one of Istanbul’s seven hills. Many first-timers miss Süleymaniye due to its slightly farther location, but as a returning visitor you’ll appreciate its splendor in a calmer setting.Enter through the garden courtyard with its elegant arches and columned peristyle. The courtyard view itself is fantastic – framed by the mosque’s four minarets (symbolizing Süleyman was the fourth sultan after the Conquest) and the massive lead-gray dome. Notice how the courtyard’s columns include various marbles and even granite from far-off quarries – Sinan loved to repurpose fine materials (there’s even a column said to be from Troy). In the center is a sadirvan (ablutions fountain). From the courtyard’s east side, enjoy a stunning view of the Golden Horn and Bosphorus – it’s a natural balcony.Step inside the mosque (open to visitors outside prayer times, and usually much less crowded than Blue Mosque). The interior strikes you with its spaciousness and serenity. It doesn’t have the intricate tile work of Sokollu or Rustem, because Sinan went for a more integrated, less-is-more aesthetic here. The soaring dome (53 m high) and the delicate stencil-painted patterns in soft red, blue, and gold create an atmosphere of harmony. The scale is monumental (it held Ottoman court ceremonies) yet somehow peaceful. Light filters through 200+ windows, originally lit with Sinan’s clever system of oil lamps whose soot was collected to make ink (talk about sustainable design!). In fact, Süleymaniye’s acoustics and ventilation were way ahead of their time – if you speak at normal volume, your voice carries naturally through the space. Wander around, noting details like the beautifully carved white marble mimber (pulpit) and mihrab. Over the mihrab you’ll see fine Iznik tile panels – one of the few decorative flourishes, depicting hanging lamps and flowers.

Take a moment at the center under the dome and look up – legend has it Sinan placed an ostrich egg in the dome to repel spiders (thus preventing cobwebs). Not sure if it’s true, but supposedly ostrich eggs emit an odor that insects dislike. The result: no cobwebs in 500 years! Such anecdotes make you appreciate Sinan’s genius even more.Outside in the garden behind the mosque, you can visit the türbe (mausoleum) of Sultan Süleyman and his wife Hürrem (Roxelana). These octagonal tombs with ornate tile work and stone carving are worth a peek (usually open during daylight hours). It’s humbling to stand before the resting place of Süleyman the Magnificent, the greatest sultan of the empire, in a tomb designed by Sinan, his loyal architect. The cemetery is tranquil, with rows of Ottoman gravestones topped by turbans and flower motifs.

Allow 30 minutes or so at Süleymaniye to fully enjoy both the interior and the views. Many consider the view from Süleymaniye’s terrace one of the best in Istanbul – you can see the Golden Horn, the Galata Tower across the water, and even the Bosphorus and Asian hills on clear days. It’s picture-perfect in afternoon light. This is a great spot to take a panoramic photo or just sit on a bench and absorb the cityscape.By now it’s around 2:30 PM. You’ve seen a lot of “authentic Istanbul” – from local mosques to markets and lunch joints. If you’re feeling a little tired, we’ll start making our way back toward Sultanahmet, with some optional detours depending on your interest and energy.

Mid-Afternoon – Scenic Stroll Back to SultanahmetThe most direct way back to Sultanahmet from Süleymaniye is to walk down the hill towards the Grand Bazaar then east to Sultanahmet (about 20 minutes). But since this is a “scenic detour” kind of tour, let’s take a slightly longer but more atmospheric route: walk through the historic Vefa and Sirkeci areas and perhaps along the walls of Gulhane Park.

‍3:00 PM – Vefa Boza Stop (Optional):
As you leave Süleymaniye, you might detour a couple blocks to Vefa Bozacısı, a shop from 1876 that sells boza – a thick, fermented millet drink that’s a winter favorite (kind of malty and slightly tangy, served with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas on top). The shop is like a time capsule with tiled walls and old photographs. If it’s the cooler season (or even if not), and you’re curious, stop in for a cup of boza. It’s like drinking history; even Atatürk visited this shop. Boza is an acquired taste (low alcohol, almost like liquid bread), but when in Istanbul’s old quarter, why not try it? A few refreshing sips, and you continue on your way.From Vefa, head east/southeast, perhaps along Ankara Caddesi or through the maze of alleys behind the Grand Bazaar. You’ll pass the Şehzade Mosque (another 16th-century Sinan mosque, built for Süleyman’s son – if you have mosque energy left, you could quickly admire its courtyard, but you’ve seen plenty today!). Soon you’ll reach the Beyazıt Square area – the plaza in front of Istanbul University and the Grand Bazaar’s main gate. Notice the towering fire-watch tower inside the university and the ornate Ottoman gate. This area was the Forum of Theodosius in Roman times, now a transit hub.Continue down Tığcılar Street or Nuruosmaniye Street which hugs the outer wall of the Grand Bazaar. Here you’ll find upscale carpet shops and the Nuruosmaniye Mosque (1755) – distinctive as an 18th-century Baroque Ottoman mosque. If you peek inside, you’ll see a very different style (more European-influenced) than the classical ones you saw earlier. It’s quiet and worth a glance if open, but you can also bypass it.

By 3:30 PM, you’re likely back at Çemberlitaş or Sultanahmet area. If you’re craving a caffeine boost, you could pop into Çemberlitaş Hamam’s café (the 1584 hamam itself is beautiful if you wanted a bath, but that takes time; instead just admire its exterior by Sinan and grab a quick tea or Turkish coffee in their lobby). Alternatively, since you’ve basically made it back to Sultanahmet, you could stop at one of the many cafés for a cold drink. But since the tour’s not quite over, let’s squeeze in one more cultural gem:

‍3:45 PM – Caferaga Medresesi (Handicrafts Center):
Behind Hagia Sophia on a side street (Caferiye Sk) lies the Caferağa Medresesi, a 16th-century former Islamic school turned arts and culture center. This is a hidden haven of traditional Turkish handicrafts. If it’s open (it usually is Tue-Sun, roughly 10–6), step into its courtyard. You’ll find a peaceful atmosphere with small chambers around the sides where artisans teach and sell their crafts – ebru (paper marbling), calligraphy, miniatures, jewelry, ceramics, etc.​​. It’s often nearly empty of tourists, but you might see students practicing calligraphy or painting. There’s also a cute café in the courtyard – if you didn’t get tea earlier, you can have one here under the vine-covered trellis, perhaps accompanied by a slice of homemade cake. This medrese was designed by Sinan in 1559 and was restored by a local cultural foundation. It’s a lovely last stop to reflect on the crafts and arts that thrive in Istanbul. You might even find a unique hand-made souvenir (a piece of marbled paper or a pendant) directly from the artist, a meaningful way to support local culture beyond the typical bazaar buys.

Ending the Day at Arasta Bazaar & Jennifer’s Hamam
By 4:30 PM, make your way once again to Arasta Bazaar (behind the Blue Mosque) – conveniently just a 5-minute walk from Caferaga Medresesi through a side street by the mosque. Even if you visited Arasta at the end of Tour 1, it’s worth returning – perhaps some different shops will catch your eye now that you’re in a more “shopper” mood. The atmosphere in late afternoon is pleasant, as the day’s tour groups have left and shopkeepers are more inclined to chat. You’ve walked quite a bit today, so feel free to take it slow here. Maybe enjoy a dondurma ice cream or a cup of pomegranate juice from a stand as you stroll.Finally, stop into Jennifer’s Hamam once more – or their second location (they have a big showroom just a few doors down from the smaller shop). As a returning visitor, you might be more prepared to invest in higher quality souvenirs. Those hand-loomed organic cotton towels, peshtemals, and scarves are truly exceptional in quality​​. The staff can even show you the difference between machine-made and hand-woven on an actual loom if you’re curious. Perhaps pick up a luxurious bath towel or robe as a gift to yourself – a piece of Istanbul that embodies sustainability and tradition. (It will last so long you might find yourself writing a review in 12 years saying it’s still as good as new​!) They also have silk scarves and other textiles if towels aren’t your thing.

By 5:00–5:30 PM, you’ve concluded Tour 2, ending once again at Arasta. Observe how the vibe differs from the end of Tour 1 – now you likely notice the subtle rhythms of local life more: the muezzin’s call echoing off nearby rooftops, the shopkeepers closing up with a friendly wave, perhaps locals heading into Blue Mosque for evening prayer. You’ve spent a day living more like an Istanbulite – discovering quiet courtyards, savoring simple local food, wandering historic alleys. It’s the kind of day that makes you fall in love with Istanbul’s deeper layers.

‍(Returning Visitor Tour recap: ~7–8 km walking. Highlights: Little Hagia Sophia, Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, Theodosius Cistern, local markets (Mahmutpaşa), lunch at Süleymaniye’s bean houses, Suleymaniye Mosque & view, Caferaga Medresesi crafts. Plenty of tea and snack stops sprinkled in! Ends at Arasta Bazaar for another chance at authentic shopping.)